Relaxed Hair

Chemical Curl & Texture Family

Relaxed hair has been permanently straightened with a chemical relaxer. Lye relaxers use sodium hydroxide; no-lye relaxers usually use guanidine hydroxide. The treated hair stays straight, and the new growth is touched up every few months.

Distinguishing characteristics

Unlike a silk press or press and curl, a relaxer changes the hair's structure permanently, so washing does not bring the curl back. A texturizer is the same kind of chemical left on for less time to loosen rather than fully straighten the curl. "No-lye" does not mean chemical-free.

Advantages

Straight hair that stays straight through washing and humidity, with quick daily styling.

Considerations

Chemical burns, breakage and thinning are risks. In the NIH Sister Study, frequent users of chemical straighteners had a higher rate of uterine cancer, an association rather than proof of cause.

Warning signs

Burning, scabs or sores on the scalp, or hair breaking off, need prompt attention from a stylist or doctor.

Preparation

Have a licensed stylist do a strand test and check your scalp first. Don't scratch, brush hard or wash right before the service, and tell the stylist about any recent colour or previous relaxer.

Daily Care

Relaxed hair is more fragile: moisturise the lengths, handle gently, and use heat sparingly.

Night Care

Wrap the hair or sleep on satin to reduce friction and breakage.

Washing

Use moisturising shampoo and conditioner made for chemically treated hair, with regular protein-and-moisture balance.

Scalp Care

A protective base on the scalp, hairline and ears reduces contact during a relaxer; report any burning at once.

Refreshing

Touch-ups go on new growth only. Overlapping relaxer onto already-relaxed hair causes breakage.

Removal

A relaxer cannot be washed out. Going back to natural hair means growing it out and trimming the relaxed ends (transitioning) or cutting them off.

Styling tips

Wraps, roller sets, silk-press-style flat ironing at low heat, bobs and updos all work on relaxed hair.

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